southern peru

Cruzpata

Peru produces some of the most dynamic coffees around and for the third year in a row, we return to the village of Cruzpata in the southern region of Puno. Known for its varied landscapes that range from deep, warm jungle to the highest, icy mountains of the Andes, we find a diversity of fertile soils at low temperatures, with high variety of mineral richness helping these lands that produce some of the best coffees in all of Peru. This is one of the coffee world’s most isolated locations which makes moving coffee from the farm to the port extremely challenging, a challenge worth supporting and investing in. Within the Sandia Province of Puno, the main district of Alto Inambari is where the Inambari river passes through the mountains at elevations up to 3000 masl and brings life throughout the many valleys below. Manco Cápac and Mama Ocllo are the children of the Sun and arose from Lake Titicaca to elevate the Inca Empire to be worshipers of the Sun, as the source of all life.

The Sandia Valley is pretty massive, containing many smaller valleys that host several unique coffee-producing communities of smallholder farmers averaging just 2.5 hectares of coffee land. Due to a UN-led replanting project in the 80s, much of Sandia Valley grows Bourbon-variety coffee, offering an elegant, floral, honeyed, and dynamically citric character, or, alternately, a rich, full-bodied, and incredibly sweet malic red apple or pear aspect. These coffees are entirely unique to Puno, distinct from what you’ll find in other regions of Peru. All of these farmers are small in terms of their landholding. As they continue generations of farming practices, producers balance agricultural experience with new techniques as they integrate instincts towards innovation. Old Bourbon can be found in abundance, but in recent years you find varietals such as Caturra, Catimor, and Tabi being planted as well. The harvest period is between August and September when ripe cherries are de-pulped and then immediately fermented for 16-20 hours in water. A thorough rinse and washed parchment coffee is then set to dry for 10-12 days under a parabolic dryer on raised beds before being sent to the dry mill. All wastewater is treated in sedimentation wells to be repurposed later. Some determine dryness by color, where a blueish-green is ideal. A tooth test is another sensory evaluation that helps identify when coffee is finished drying. Each producer seems to find their own way of producing the highest quality they can.

This year, the coffees of Vilma Chambi Apaza have found their way back to Brooklyn. The lot is 100% Bourbon that grows around 1900 masl on a 3 hectare farm. Vilma comes from a coffee family and is excited to see the opportunities that have opened up over the years as more and more help and demand has entered the area. In Cruzpata, everyone has coffee at the center of life. Her brother David is helping a lot of the farmers transport there coffees to be identified for the quality that they’ve produced and this is bringing premiums to historically impoverished areas. Vilma’s coffee is shining example of the beauty in the village of Cruzpata. Like a reminder of childhood treats, Vilma’s coffee shows a delicate yet playful expression of familiar flavor. Dehydrated strawberry and dark chocolate are the pillars being danced around. White grape juice and strawberry creme set the stage for florals and honeys integrate sweetness throughout the cloud like texture. A playful acidity keeps the creaminess expanding until being weighted down by hints of shaved dark chocolate. This is much like a strawberry shortcake being dusted with cocoa and flowers. It’s nice to see you return, Vilma. 

cruzpata peru

• Origin - Peru

• Region - Puno

• Province - Sandia

• District - Alto Inambari

• Village - Cruzpata

• Producer - Vilma Chambi Apaza

• Altitude - 1900 masl

• Varietals - Bourbon